You’ve seen it in TV shows and old movies; a raggedy spiked hat with random decorations adorning it. It goes by several names: palookaville cap, fedora beanie and clubhouse hat, to name a few. But the most common name for it is whoopee cap.
This style came about in the early part of the 20th century and was made popular by youths in the United States. Typically, it was adapted from a man’s felt fedora hat by taking scissors to the brim and creating a scalloped or spiky edge. The brim was then turned up in a crown-like fashion and sometimes decorated. In the 20’s and 30’s, such caps usually indicated the wearer was a mechanic.
Mechanic or not, you can recreate this look for yourself with Revel, the free whoopee cap crochet pattern.
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I made this cap with Red Heart Super Saver in Charcoal. I enjoy working with this yarn, and especially like that it washes and wears well. Items can easily be machine washed and dried as needed.
You will need less than one skein of this yarn to complete your whoopee cap. I love that I can get this yarn locally for a great price, as it seems to be everyone’s favorite color!
REVEL CAP
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YARN:
Red Heart Super Saver in Charcoal
Worsted Weight #4 ~ 92 gms, 170 yards
HOOK:
5.0 mm (US H-8)
GAUGE:
14 single crochet and 16 rows = 4 inches
SIZE:
Teen/Adult = 21 to 23 inch head circumference
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS:
Circumference = 20 inches
Length = 8 inches (when folded)
ABBREVIATIONS (US TERMS):
CH = chain
RS = right side
SC = single crochet
SL ST = slip stitch
TOG = together
INSTRUCTIONS:
Row 1: Chain 39. SL ST in second chain from hook. SL ST in next 9 chains. SC in each remaining chain to end. (38)
Row 2 (RS): Chain 1. Turn. Make 2 SC in first stitch. SC in next 27 stitches. SL ST in back loops of next 9 stitches. The last stitch will not be worked. (38)
Row 3: Chain 1. Turn. SL ST in first 9 stitches. SC in each remaining stitch until 1 stitch remains. Make 2 SC in last stitch. (39)
Row 4: Chain 1. Turn. Make 2 SC in first stitch. SC in next 29 stitches. SL ST in back loops of next 8 stitches. The last stitch will not be worked. (39)
Row 5: Chain 1. Turn. SL ST in first 8 stitches. SC in each remaining stitch until 1 stitch remains. Make 2 SC in last stitch. (40)
Row 6: Chain 1. Turn. Make 2 SC in first stitch. SC in next 31 stitches. SL ST in back loops of next 7 stitches. The last stitch will not be worked. (40)
Row 7: Chain 1. Turn. SL ST in first 7 stitches. SC in each remaining stitch until 3 stitches remain. SC2TOG. The last stitch will not be worked. (38)
Row 8: Chain 1. Turn. SC2TOG. SC in next 29 stitches. SL ST in back loops of next 6 stitches. The last stitch will not be worked. (36)
Row 9: Chain 1. Turn. SL ST in first 6 stitches. SC in each remaining stitch until 2 stitches remain. SC2TOG. (35)
Row 10: Chain 1. Turn. SC2TOG. SC in next 27 stitches. SL ST in back loops of next 6 stitches. SL ST in each unworked SL ST of previous rows (4 unworked stitches total). (38)
Row 11: Chain 1. Turn. SL ST in back loops of first 10 stitches. SC in each remaining stitch to end. (38)
Repeat Row 2 through Row 11 a total of six times.
Repeat Row 2 through Row 10 one time.
There should be 80 rows total, or 8 pointy peaks.
Seaming: With right sides facing, bring edges of work together and slip stitch through back loops of the last row and the corresponding loops on the foundation chain.
SC Edging: Wrong side of work should be facing out. Chain 1. *SC in end of each row to next peak. At the peak, work (SC, CH 1, SC) all in same space. SC in end of each row to next valley. SC2TOG in valley. Repeat from * to end. SL ST to join in first stitch.
Cut a 12-inch length of yarn to close the opening at the top of the hat. Weave the strand through every other row end around the opening and pull gently to tighten.
Weave in ends.
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